Tag Archives: duck

Tight, Copenhagen, by guest blogger Lucy Reynolds

After failing to gain a cancellation table at Noma, and also living off fresh air and water due to the extortionate prices in Copenhagen, we decided to treat ourselves to a fancy meal on our last night in Denmark, and Tight had been recommended highly.

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We had to wait a while for a table but the lovely Canadian waiter got us some drinks to keep us occupied and we gazed around the quirky restaurant. From reading Trip Advisor reviews , this little gem of a place seems to be constantly busy, catering for trendy Copenhageners who seemed to be auditioning for a Gap advert – there were more beards than at a Mumford and Sons lookalike contest!
We were quickly whisked through to a small back room which had low lighting and large wooden barrels which acted as tables. The serving staff were incredibly friendly and accommodating and brought our menus and drinks very quickly – a great start in my eyes.

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The menu held many delights, but due to my current obsession with shellfish, I opted for Mussels ‘sauce poulette’ and my friend plumped for Pierre’s Foie Gras.

The mussels arrived, all steaming with potential deliciousness and didn’t disappoint. In my eyes, the deal breaker for mussels is always in the cooking liquor. These mussels were steeped in a gorgeous broth of creamy white wine with a lovely hint of garlic and chilli that didn’t over power but really gave a kick to the taste buds. The bread was brioche-like with lovely pockets of sea salt baked into the crust that made dipping it into the sauce a real treat.

White wine steamed mussels, cream, parsley, garlic, carrots with a hint of chilli, aoli and toasted bread
White wine steamed mussels, cream, parsley, garlic, carrots with a hint of chilli, aoli and toasted bread

My friend’s Foie Gras was presented beautifully and had a really rustic taste too. With a smear of port wine jelly to add a piquancy to the dish, it was delicious served with the freshly baked bread that accompanied it. More like a terrine, it was potted with butter and balsamic glaze which lifted it above the often run of the mill pâtés.

Unique homemade foie gras served with portwine jelly and toasted bread
Unique homemade foie gras served with portwine jelly and toasted bread

For mains, we decided to go for the pork schnitzel Deluxe and the French duck confit. My friend had the pork and it was that good that I didn’t even get a look in – he seemed to inhale it in a matter of minutes! He was served three incredibly tender medallions of pork, rolled in mustard, parsley and honey crumb and served with a potato gratin and rich ratatouille. The flavours were perfectly balanced and brought out the natural sweetness of the pork – a surprisingly light yet immensely satisfying dish.

Three danish pork tenderloin medallions encrusted with parsley parmasen, mustard and honey - served with potatoes gratin and homemade ratatouille
Three danish pork tenderloin medallions encrusted with parsley parmasen, mustard and honey – served with potatoes gratin and homemade ratatouille

The confit duck was gloriously crispy and tender – every bite felt like you could feel your arteries furring up but it didn’t matter – the taste was amazing. It was served with pink pickled onions, creamy mashed potato and a sharp spinach and citrus reduction salad. The onions were a lovely addition to the duck but I did find the citrus salad a little too sharp for my palate. I could see the need for a palate cleanser but the orange sauce was just too bitter to complement the sweet onion and duck. However, aside from the small niggle, the potatoes were wondrously buttery and the whole dish felt incredibly indulgent.

Crispy duck confit served with caramelized red onions, homemade potato mash, seasonal greens and salad
Crispy duck confit served with caramelized red onions, homemade potato mash, seasonal greens and salad

We didn’t sample the desserts – we were already on a budget and very full from our two courses. Copenhagen, whilst extortionate, is full of amazing food and Tight is a perfect example of it. Friendly, tasty and vibrant, Tight is actually great value in a very expensive but beautiful city. Highly recommended!

Hyskenstræde 10
1207 Copenhagen
Denmark
+45 33 11 09 00

Rustique, York

I met up with a couple of old friends in York this week and for lunch we tried out popular restaurant Rustique, located on Castlegate near the Jorvik Centre. York is a popular city with locals and tourists alike and has a number of fine dining establishments, such as Melton’s restaurant and The Blue Bicycle, but it also has its fair share of chain restaurants too. This means independents need to work increasingly harder to stay open, e.g. just a number of weeks ago, J. Baker’s Bistro Moderne, arguably one of York’s finest restaurants closed down unexpectedly. image As their name suggests they serve rustic French food, in a bistro setting. The restaurant has a pleasant dining room, with walls covered with French prints from artists such as Toulouse Lautrec. IMG_3499 They offer an extensive ala carte menu, but also a very reasonably priced set menu of 2 courses for £12.95 or 3 courses for £14.95. It was good to see there was plenty of choice available for each course on the set menu too, including French classics steak frites and moules marinière. IMG_3501 We ordered a bottle of the house white and some sparkling water, which was brought over promptly. Our starters were brought out and we were all pretty pleased with what we saw: they all looked good and we tucked in immediately. I chose the Basque egg and it was a very tasty starter, even though the component parts were all put together in the same dish, they all still had their own individual flavours and were cooked very well. I really liked the mix of the different sausages with the potatoes, and the paprika with the oil from the chorizo gave it a lovely flavour. It looked like a small tapas-sized dish, but it was a sizeable portion to start off with.  I was reliably informed that the crab cake was crispy on the outside, soft and nicely ‘crabby’ on the inside. Very tasty. The pâté starter seemed to go down well too, to the point that my friend, who had quickly wolfed down her crab cake was then sampling some of the pate and onion marmalade!

Pate de foies de volaille - chicken liver pate with french bread and red onion marmalade.
Pate de foies de volaille – chicken liver pate with french bread and red onion marmalade.
Cromesquis de crabe -homemade crab cake served with a sweet chilli sauce
Cromesquis de crabe -homemade crab cake served with a sweet chilli sauce
Basque egg - pan fried Toulouse sausage, chorizo, new potatoes and peas cooked with smoked paprika and finished with a baked egg
Basque egg – pan fried Toulouse sausage, chorizo, new potatoes and peas cooked with smoked paprika and finished with a baked egg

After a good start, it didn’t take long for our main course to be brought out.

Steak frites - pan-fried rump steak with garlic butter and fries
Steak frites – pan-fried rump steak with garlic butter and fries
Tartelette au fromage de chevre et tomates séchées
Tartelette au fromage de chevre et tomates séchées – goats cheese and sun blushed tomato tartlet, served with new potatoes and a mixed leaf salad
Confit de canard - slow roasted leg of duck served with dauphinoise potatoes, red wine and red currant jus
Confit de canard – slow roasted leg of duck served with dauphinoise potatoes, red wine and red currant jus

For me it was a toss up between the classics moules mariniere and the steak frites, but I was hankering for a decent steak, so steak frites was the winner this time. It had been really well cooked, medium rare as I’d requested and had a nice garlic butter sauce. The frites were thin and crisp and the portion size was not scrimped on either. The only thing I had a slight issue with, and it is a very picky thing, is I would have preferred pouring the garlic butter sauce myself, rather than having it already done. A nice little jug of the stuff would have done the trick, allowing me to control how much I wanted. Nevertheless, it was a pretty tasty dish and I was wholly satisfied and full at the end of the course. My dining companions also thought highly of their main courses, the goat’s cheese tart new potatoes and a well dressed salad was found to be yummy, its portion size was generous. The duck confit had a crispy skin, succulent meat with good dauphinois potatoes, and a lovely redcurrant sauce finishing it off nicely. When our waiter asked if we wanted any desserts, we all looked at each other and were resigned to the fact that we were all too full!

The staff were welcoming and efficient, our food was cooked well overall. The location of the restaurant is good as it’s in the city centre, but not on the more populated streets and a little out of the way. The total cost of the meal with wine was £58.20 for 3 people, so very reasonable and good value for money. Rustique has become so busy that they are opening another restaurant in Lendal next month, so if your in York it would be worth giving them a go.

Rustique
28 Castlegate
York
YO1 9RP
01904 612744
http://www.rustiqueyork.co.uk